Stone Forest

Being one of the National Scenic Resorts in China, Stone Forest Scenic Resort is 83km from Kunming and has a complete range of karst formations. Among the most wonderful attractions in this area are the following eight scenic spots: Large & Small Stone Forests, Naigu Stone Forests, Large & Small Zhiyun Caves, Qingfeng Cave, Long Lake, Moon Lake, Fairy Lake, Feilong Falls. Standing upright in the Stone Forest are innumerable cliffs and peaks, lofty and majestic, steep and precipitous, charming and enchanting.
An interesting legend related the attraction goes that a heroine Asham of the Sani( the Sani people are a branch of the Yi nationality living in Yunnan province) was bore into a poor family in today's Yunan region. The girl was very clever and she began helping her father herd sheep at the age of 12. One day in the mountains she saved a boy named Ahei who had lost his way while picking wild fruit. Ahei, a 12-year-old orphan, had to toil for the landlord. Sympathizing with the poor boy, Ashma took him home. Ashma's parents took pity on Ahei and fostered him. Ahei and Ashma grew up together and they fell in love with each other. They got married and lived a happy life. But Ashma was later abducted by the man, Azhi, the landlord's son who was eager for the lady's beauty. When Ahei-the husband learnt the event, he killed the landlord and his son and rescued his wife-Ashma. The lovers went into the stone forest and lived happily there ever after, giving birth to fine sons and daughters who are said to be the ancestors of the Sani people.
From afar, it really looks like a dense forest but as you walk closer, you will find "trees” are all slender stone pinnacles. The sight is vast covering some 350 kilometers. The Yi and Sani ethnic group who live there are hardworking and good at singing and dancing. Their folklore and culture are colorful and multifarious, backed up by a long history.
This area's altitude is 1760 meters. This results in perennially pleasant weather, with the annually average temperature of 15.6 Celsius. The Stone Forest is connected with Kunming both by highway and railway, enjoying an easily accessible transport.

The Tiananmen Square

Tiananmen Square is a large paved public plaza near the middle of Beijing, China,in front of the Forbidden City, facing south,and is said to be the biggest square in the world. It is 880 meters from south to north, and 500 meters from east to west, with total area of 440,000 square meters and can hold one million people.Tourists can visit Tiananmen Tower, Monument to the People's Heroes, Great Hall of the People, Mao Zedong Memorial Hall and see the national flag raising ceremony.
Initially built in 1417 during the Ming Dynasty (1368 A.D.--1644 A.D.), the Square(translated from Chinese: The Gate of Heavenly Peace) was the front door of the Forbidden City.The most important use of it in the past was to declare in a big ceremony to the common people who became the emperor and who became the empress. Until 1911 when the last feudal kingdom was over, no one could enter the Tower except for the royal family and aristocrats.
Today it is a world recognised symbol of where Mao Zedong (Mao Tse-tung) declared the foundation the People's Republic of China on October 1, 1949. It is now one of the entrances for tourists visiting the Forbidden City. Thousands of people come to the Square every day. It is a must place to visit in Beijing City.The present Tiananmen Square has become a relaxing place for the common people to fly kites and walk. On a holiday, the whole square is covered with fresh flowers.
Tiananmen Gate Tower sits at the north, the Five-Star Red Flag flies high on the square, the Monument to the People's Heroes dominates the center, the Great Hall of the People and the Museum of the Chinese Revolution and the Museum of Chinese History to the east and west of it, as well as The Chairman Mao Memorial Hall and the Qianmen gate, sit in the south of the square. Over several hundred years, in front of the Tiananmen, many democracy meetings and demonstrations are held. Tens of thousands of people visit daily. The Square is listed top among Beijing's 16 scenic spots.
Five Star Red Flag-the Chinese national flag, flies high in the sky above the Square. To see the guard of honor raise the Flag is a must for the tourist visiting Beijing City. You have to get up very early and arrive at the Square before sunrise. Only by doing so can you see the ceremony clearly as there are crowds of people attending the ceremony every day.
West of the Square is the Great Hall of the People. This building, erected in 1959, is the site of the China National People's Congress meetings and provides an impressive site for other political and diplomatic activities.Twelve marble posts are infront of the Hall which has three parts--the Central Hall, the Great Auditorium and a Banqueting Hall. The floor of the Central Hall is paved with marble andcrystal lamps hang from the ceiling. The Great Auditorium behind the Central Hall seats 10,000. The Banqueting Hall is a huge hall with 5,000 seats.
Monument to the People's Heroes
The granite Monument to the People's Heroes,or Renmin Yinxiong Jinian Bei,is just at the center of the Tiananmen Square. Built in 1952, it is the largest monument in China's history.Completed in 1958, more than 10,000 tons of stone were used for the 40 meter high obelisk.
"The People's Heroes are Immortal" written by Chairman Mao is engraved on the monument. At the base of the monument are eight two meter tall bas-relief panels depicting seminal events in the Communist interpretation of Chinese history between 1839 and 1949. Two rows of white marble railings enclose the monument, simple and beautiful. Dedicated to the men and women who died in the struggles to make China an independent nation in the century before the Communists came to power, it has acted as a lightning rod for dissent.
Mausoleum
Mao Zedong Memorial Hall is at the south side of the Square.The mausoleum was completed in 1977. This Hall is divided into three halls and our dear Chairman Mao's body lies in a crystal coffin in one of the halls surrounded by fresh bouquets of various famous flowers and grasses.
The mausoleum is usually open Tuesday-Sunday 8:30-11:30am and 2-4pm; admission is free. Before viewing Mao's remains contained within a crystal sarcophagus, visitors are required to check in any baggage or camera gear on the east side of the Memorial Hall. Visitors queuing up normally see the North, Homage, and South Halls. According to Li Zhisui, Mao's personal physician, the Chairman's internal organs preserved in formaldehyde and wax replica of his corpse were stored in the basement of the building. It is unknown if they are still there today.
Another important place for the tourist to visit is the China National Museum at the east side of the Square. It just came into existence in 2003 and is a combination of Chinese History Museum and Chinese Revolutionary Museum. This National Museum faces the Great Hall of the People. Inside the Chinese Revolutionary Museum are a lot of material objects, pictures, books and models to present the development of modern China. The Chinese History Museum shows a large number of cultural relics illustrating the long history and glorious culture of China from 1,700,000 years ago to 1921 when the last emperor left the throne.

The Great Silk Road

The Great Silk Road is the trading caravan way from China to the capital of Rome empire. It connects two very contrasting worlds - East and West: the two cultures of Asia and Europe. Existed from the 2nd century B.C. till the 16th century A.D. the total length of the route was about 7,000 km.
Its name comes from the first item of transit trade - Chinese silk, later beside silk, appeared other goods: jewellery, glass, iron etc. Silk Road has had a unique role in foreign trade and political relations, stretching far beyond the bounds of Asia itself. It has left its mark on the development of civilisations on both sides of the continent.
The main route of the Great Silk Road went through the territories of China, basin of Tarim, Over Pamir and Tien-Shan mountains, Central Asia, Afghanistan, Iran, along the eastern shore of Mediterranean and farther to the main trade centres of Near East, North Africa and Europe. The Great Silk Road played a vital role in lifestyle of many nations of Eurasia. It was an important artery in ancient and middle aged time, the source of trade and information, cause of many conflicts and wars. Along the route appeared, reached the golden ages and die many nations and cultures, trade centres and many capitals of world empires.
The Han-dynasty Silk Road began at the magnificent capital city of Chang'an (today's Xian). The route took traders westwards into Gansu Province through Lanzhou, Tianshui, Zhangye, jiuquan along the Hexi Corridor reached Jiayuguan - the giant barrier of the Great Wall and the first key point of the route- Dunhuang. Dunhuang is in the west end of the Hexi Corridor of Gansu Province. It is one of the well-known Chinese historical and cultural cities, and the bright pearl on the ancient Silk Road.
When the ancient Silk Road came out of the Hexi Corridor into Xinjiang, it broke into three main routes. The southern route ran west along the northern foot of Kunlun Mountains, via Charkhilk ( Ruoqiang), Cherchen ( Quemo), Minfeng ( Niya), and Hetian ( Hotan), then reached Kashgar - another key point on the Silk Road, afterwards went over the Pamirs, and reached India or passed through Afghanistan and Russian Central Asia to reach the coast of the Mediterranean or Arabia. The central route meandered west along the southern foot of the Tianshan Mountains dotted by Loulan, Korla, Chucha, and Aksu, then crossed the Pamirs and led to Mari in Russia. The northern route rambled along the northern foot of the Tianshan Mountains, starting at Hami wound through Turpan, Urumqi, westward reached the Ili River Valley, and led to area as near the Black Sea.
The ancient Silk Road in Xinjiang traversed desolate desert areas and wound over snow-capped peaks. It was full of difficulties and obstacles and more dangerous and fascinating than other sections of the road. It was the only way for China to get in touch with the West between the second century B.C. and the 10th century A.D. Various ancient cultures of the West and East, including some lost cultures, have left traces of themselves in Xinjiang. Although sections of the Silk Road have been buried by sand in deserts, the local dry climate has miraculously preserved sites and relics several thousand years old. Some relics are as good as they were centuries ago.
The three routes of the Silk Road ran between mountain ranges and long edges of deserts, going through oases inhabited by ancient tribes. These tribes also opened some branch roads across mountain passes to join the three routes together.
Many caravan routes on the Great Silk Road were changed by time, and only the main directions from the East to the West and back were kept originally.Caravan traffic was very slow, in good day the caravan consisted from 100 to 10 thousand camels covered 8 farsah (50 km), in nasty days - 4 forsah (25 km). Along the route the one could take a rest in Caravanserais.
The Great Silk Road promoted the transition to settled style of life, and developing of animal breeding. There were no similar phenomenons in the history of humanity with the same economical and cultural importance. The Great Silk Road put the Order, Commonwealth and Peace in general chaos of the Middle Ages.

The Great Wall

The Great Wall in north China stretches from Shanhaiguan Pass in the east to Jiayuguan Pass in the west traversing provinces of Liaoning, Hebei, Beijing, Tianjin, Shanxi, Inner Mongolia, Ningxia,Shaanxi and Gansu and is 6,700 kilometers long. Hence the name "Wan Li Chang Cheng" or "the long wall of 10,000 li".
Great Wall of China, an ancient gigantic defensive project,is one of the greatest wonders of the world.According to astronauts who looked back from the moon, of all projects built by man, the Great Wall of China is the most conspicuous visible from space.
Construction of the Great Wall lasted for over 2,000 years, from the state of Chu in the seventh century BC to the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and it ran through more than 20 feudal kingdoms and states ruled by dukes or princes. Excitement abounds in the origin, vicissitude and nature of the great wall of the Qin, Han, and Ming dynasties.
During the Qin, Han and Ming dynasties there was considerable construction with more than 5,000 kilometers built. If all the sections built in various historical periods were put together the Great Wall would be more than 50,000 kilometers(10,000 li) long. If building a wall which is one meter thick and five meters high with the earth and stones of the Great Wall, the wall can circle the earth.
Much of the Great Wall is like a high city wall stretching thousands of kilometers following and crossing the highest mountain peaks. Along its length there are some 100 passes and tens of thousands of watch and beacon towers. These structures and the undulating topography that the wall traverses add to its wonder. The section in Beijing's Badaling is strong and intact and is a good place to enjoy. There are also interesting sections in Jinshanling, Mutianyu, Simatai and Gubeikou. Other well known and popular spots along the wall are the Huangya Pass in Tianjin, Shanhai Pass in Heibei Province and Jiayu Pass in Gansu Province. The Great Wall is a bridge that links the Chinese people with people from other countries and regions.
The laboring people of different dynasties demonstrated their intelligence and wisdom while building this great project. They left behind a precious heritage deserving our everlasting care.
Included in the UNESCO world heritage list in 1987.

Dragon Boat Festival: carrying on the traditions

Two girls look at the fragrant bags they just received in front of an old drugstore selling Chinese medicine in Hangzhou, capital of east China's Zhejiang province, May 31, 2006. [Xinhua Photo]

Folk performance in Xinjiang

Photo taken on March 29 shows a folk performance named "Mashraf" in Yaer Village, in Turpan City, northwest China's Xinjiang Ugyur Autonomous Region. Hundreds of folk actors perform songs and dances which were popular among local people. [Xinhua Photo]

Photo taken on March 29 shows a folk performance named "Mashraf" in Yaer Village, in Turpan City, northwest China's Xinjiang Ugyur Autonomous Region. [Xinhua Photo]

Lady Yang’s Tomb

The Tomb of Concubine Yang is situated about 60 km. to the west of Xi an. Yang Guefeis tomb is situated near to Xianyang city which was the capital of Chinas first dynasty.

Although many of the tombs and the Famen Temple are a long way out of Xian, it is worth visiting these places if you have time. It takes a long day to see all the sights along this route and its best to just pick a few of the more interesting tombs and Temples along the route and make the effort to see them properly.

Yang Guifei was the Emperor Tang Ming Huangs concubine who hung herself to save her lovers name and the empire. Yangs tomb is a popular spot with Chinese tourists and she is considered to be one of the most beautiful women ever to have lived. The story goes that when the Emperor took Yang into the gardens, beautiful flowers would shy away as they felt inferior in comparison to her beauty.

Until a few years ago, young Chinese girls would visit here on the third day of the third month in the lunar year, take some soil from around the tomb and mix it with flour. Popular belief holds that this "concubines powder" makes you beautiful if it is applied to the face. However, as the ground around the tomb began to disintegrate, authorities put a stop to this romantic practice by building a blue wall around the tomb! In the corridors surrounding the courtyard of the tomb, the work of numerous famous writers is displayed, depicting their views on this tragic love story.

Opening Hours: 08:00-18:00
Admission Tickets: RMB 15
Tel：0910-8240024

Princess Yongtai’s tomb

2km northeast Qianling Mausoleum, Princess Yongtai’s Tomb, now the site of Qianling Museum, is a chief satellite tomb to Qianling. Princess Yongtai was the grand daughter of the Tang Emperor Gaozong and his wife Empress Wu zetian. In the first year of Dazu(701 A.D.), she and her husband were killed by Wu Zetian because she tacked about the scandalous affairs between Wu Zetian and her men prostitutes. After mounting to the throne, Zhongzong ordered to bury his daughter –Yongtai and her husband together in Qianling.

Openning hours: 08:30-17:30
Admission Tickets：RMB 20
Tel：0910-5510048

Qianling Mausoleum

Qianling Mausoleum is located on Liangshan Hill about 80 kilometers west of Xian. This well preserved mausoleum is the joint tomb of the the Tang dynasty Emperor Gaozong and Empress Wu Zetian. Empress Wus rise to power is particularly impressive given that she became an Empress in her own right in a society where the highest position a woman could generally hope to obtain was that of concubine.

After her husband died, the Empress Wu ruled the country until her death in 707. Criticism of this "feminist" Empress ranges from those who saw her as little more than a whore to those who consider that she was blood thirsty and tyrannical. No doubt all these opinions are tainted by the simple fact that she was a woman.

The Tomb is surrounded by headless statues of the leaders of minority peoples. There are various historical relics here including stone engravings and exquisitely carved stone statues. Of all the arts, sculpture particularly blossomed during the Tang dynasty.

The small mausoleum is located on a hill with three peaks- two artificial and one natural. Locals believe that the north peak resembles Empress Wus head and the two southern peaks resemble her breasts! There are also other tombs around here including Princess Yong Tais tomb- an elegant and beautiful construction.

Openning hours: 08:30-17:30
Admission Tickets：RMB 30
Tel：0910-5510048

Famen Temple

Famen Temple is located in Famen Town 120 kilometers northwest of Xian. Although this Temple is a fair distance from Xian, it is a fascinating place with an intriguing history and it is worth making the effort to get here.

Legend has it that in 147 AD King Asoka of India traveled throughout Asia, distributing Buddhist relics as atonement for his sins and war like attitude. In China, he built this Temple and left the fingers of Buddha to be enshrined here.

Tang Dynasty Emperors revered this sacred relic and regularly walked through the streets with the fingers followed by a huge worshipping procession. The Tang Emperors offered wonderful gifts to the fingers in an attempt to better their predecessors offerings.

This legend was actually dismissed until 1981 when heavy rains revealed the crypt, shrine and underground palace completely by accident. The crypt contains the Buddhas fingers and gifts from the Emperors. The site is still seen as an important place of pilgrimage for Buddhists today.

The museum here is excellent and contains various objects from the Tang dynasty including sacrificial offerings and royal gifts.

Openning hours: 08:30-17:30
Admission Tickets：RMB 60
Tel：0917-5254154

Drum Tower

Two blocks west of the Bell Tower, stands the Drum Tower, which was built in 1380. There used to be a huge drum in the tower, which told the time at dusk; hence, the Bell and the Drum have been referred to as "the Morning Bell" and "the Dusk Drum". Later, the drum was no longer used to tell time but only to give warnings to people in times of war.

Quite similar to the nearby Bell Tower, the Drum Tower also has a triple-eaved, two-storey wooden structure high off its rectangular brick platform, which is 52.6 meters (172feet) long, 38 meters (125 feet) wide and 7.7 meters (25 feet) high. Parapets on each tier surround the center and The elegance and grandeur outer eaves decorated with wooden arches reveals much of the superb architectural artifice. The second storey is now used as an antique shop, for which it provides a very original setting. A road goes straight through it extending to the Muslim quarter.

This tower marks the entrance to the citys Muslim Quarter which is a lovely area to wander and observe. the felling here is almost of a "city within a city" and the streets around this district heading up to the Mosque are like a small village crammed with people selling all kinds of weird and wonderful things.

Openning hours: 08:30-21:00
Admission Tickets：RMB 12
Tel：029-87214665

Bell Tower

The Bell Tower in Xian is situated in the very heart of the city and at the junction of four main roads. There is a huge bell hanging on the roof of the tower which was traditionally used to tell the time by and there are other, smaller bells on exhibit in the tower too.

Known as the symbol of Xian, its history can be traced back to the Ming Dynasty. Each Ming city had a bell tower and a drum tower. The bell was sounded at dawn and the drum at dusk. The Bell Tower was originally set at the intersection of Xi Dajie (West Street) and Guangji Jie (Guangji Street) in the Yingxiang Temple, which was the center of the site of the old Tang Imperial City. It was removed to its present place in 1582 in the center of the southern section of the walled city and was restored several times.

The tower has a square-shaped brick platform, each side of which is 35.5 meters (116 feet) long and 8.6 meters (28 feet) high and on the top is a triple-eaved, two-story wooden structure with carved beams and color-painted rafters, a further 27.4 meters (90feet) high. Colorful Dougong -- a unique Chinese architecture of brackets inserted on the top of columns and crossbeams strengthen the building and enhance the artistic. The design of this kind is also perceptible from the engravings on bronzes dating back to the Warring States Period (475-221 B.C.). The inside is a remarkable example of the very intricate roof truss system used in Ming and Qing wooden architecture. In a corner of the brick platform is a Ming-period bell.

Openning hours: 08:30-21:00
Admission Tickets：RMB 15
Tel：029-87214665

The Great Mosque At Huajue Lane

Located at Huajue Lane, the Great Mosque is the major spot for the religious activities of over 60000 Moslems in Xi’an. It is also an important historic monument in Shaanxi Province.

Unlike other Arabic mosques, the Great Mosque in Xi’an possesses much Chinese tradition in both its design and its artistic outlook. The Mosque at Huajue Lane is the largest in Xi’an, and it is also one of the earliest built on a comparatively large scale, and the best preserved mosque in China.

Openning hours: 08:00-18:00
Admission Tickets：RMB 12
Tel：029-87219807

The Shaanxi History Museum

Located in the east Xiaozhai Road, south of Xi’an city, it is a massive modern museum and a magnificent architectural complex in the Tang-Dynasty style. It covers an area of 70000 square meters.

The architectural style is simple, unsophisticated, elegant and unique, it combines the construction of the ancient Chinese palaces and courtyard buildings . It collects the highlights of the Shaanxi culture and shows a development of the Chinese civilization. The Museum possesses a treasure of 113000 historic and culture artifacts unearthed in Shaanxi.

The exhibition can be divided into seven sections which emphatically reveal the prosperity of the Prehistoric Age; the Zhou; Qin; Han; Wei; Jin; North and South, Sui, Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming, Qing Dynasties. The exhibition vividly depicts Shaanxi History, range from 1150000 years ago up to the year 1840. Eleven dynasties established their capitals in Shaanxi Province. In a way, the ancient history of Shaanxi is a highly condensed version of Chinese history.

Openning hours: 08:00-17:30
Admission Tickets：RMB 35
Tel：029-85217140

Museum of Forest of Steles

Situated at the site of the Confucian Temple in Sanxue Street, Xi’an, the Museum of Forest of Stone Tablets is a courtyard-styled structure. It covers an area of 30000 square meters.

Steles are huge stone slabs which depict important calligraphic writing, often dating back to ancient times. They are held in high regard in China and many people study the artistry of these mammoth pieces.

Xi’an Forest of Stone Tablets was originally set up in 1087. It is an art treasure –house containing the largest and richest collection of stone tablets in China. These pieces of art are works from the Han Dynasty through to the Qing Dynasty, including over 1000 memorial tablets forming the Forest of Stone Tablets. It is not only a treasure house of ancient Chinese calligraphy, but also a rich collection of China’s historical documents and records and stone carving patterns. These tablets records a part of the great achievements of Chinese culture and can reveal to us the truth of the cultural exchanges between China and other countries.

Openning hours: 08:30-17:30
Admission Tickets：RMB 30
Tel：029-87213868

City Wall

The Xian City Wall is not only the most complete city wall that has survived in China, but its also one of the largest and most complete ancient military systems of defense in the world. The city walls here were actually built on the fortifications of the Tang Forbidden City.

Located in the central area of Xi’an city, the Xi’an City Wall which built in Ming Dynasty stands 12 meters high. It is 12- 14 meters across the top, 15-18 meters thick at bottom and 13.7 kilometers in length. It is divided into several important parts such an the rampart, the gate tower, the suspend bridge, the watch tower, the moat and so on. The Ming Dynasty City Wall formed a complex and well-organized system of defense. The city wall itself is a true display of the ability and wisdom of the working people in ancient times. It provides invaluable and substantial material for the study of the history, military science, and architecture of the Ming Dynasty.

Openning hours: 08:00-21:00
Admission Tichets：RMB 10Tel：North Gate 029-87271081，South Gate 029-87271696

Small Wild Goose Pagoda

The Small Wild Goose Pagoda, is situated about 1km south of Xian city in the grounds of Jianfu Temple.The temple, was originally established in 684 A.D. in honor of Li Zhi - Emperor Gaozong of Tang dynasty. It was particularly associated with Buddhist Monk Yijing, who translated Buddhist scriptures he had brought back from India.

The pagoda set up in 707 originally had 15 storeies about 45 meters in height at the request of Yijing to preserve scriptures. But it was damaged during a series of earthquakes in the late 15th and 16th centuries. In 1847, the pagoda was split from top to bottom by the impact of an earthquake of 6 points on the Richter scale. Amazingly, it did not fall. In 1556 another quake, 8 on the Richter scale, had its epicenter some 75 kilometers (47 mile) east of Xian. The crack healed overnight, therefore it was called the "Magic Healing". When repair work started in 1949, it was found that the healing was not "magic", but "man-made". The base of the pagoda shaped a hemisphere in accordance with the geographic nature of Xian, which evenly divided the stress of the earthquakes. It revealed the admirable workmanship of the ancient Chinese.

The pagoda is uniquely and delicately shaped with a hollow inside and was originally built to house Buddhist scriptures and relics.

Opening hours: 08:00-18:00
Admission Tickets：RMB 10
Tel：029-85253455

Big Wild Goose Pagoda

Situated in the Da Ci’en Temple, about four kilometers form the urban center, the Big Wild Goose Pagoda is one of the famous Buddhist pagodas in China.

The Big Wild Goose Pagoda was sponsored and named by the famous master Xuan Zang (Monk Tripitaka) in 652 A.D.. Xuan Zang was both a great translator and traveler of Tang Dynasty. At the age of 28 in 627 A.D., he went alone ot India to study Buddhist Scriptures, 17 years later he returned to Chang’an with 657 volumes of Buddhist Scriptures, He received a ceremony of unprecedented grandeur for him when he moved into the temple to translate the Buddhist Scripture. In 652 A.D. Xuan Zang made a proposal to the court for a pagoda to store the scriptures and statues he had brought back from India. Then the world famous Big Wild Goose Pagoda was finished in 652 A.D.

The storied pagoda was an architectural marvel. It was built with layers bricks but without any cement in between, it is a good example of ancient people’s wisdom and talent. This magnificent pagoda is a square pyramid and stands at 60 meters high and seven storeys tall.

There are fantastic views from the top of the pagoda of the grid- like streets below and it seems hard to believe today that the area around here was once countryside and fields! It is tradition to throw coins from the windows of the pagoda in the hope that this will bring good luck.

Opening hours: 08:00-17:00
Admission Tickets: RMB 25Tel：029-85217932

The Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor

Located at the foot of the Mountain Li and 2 km west of the Terracotta army, is the tomb of the Qin Emperor that the warriors were built to protect. This is a very tourist oriented site and it leaves many people feeling cold. Today, its hard to imagine the incredible glamour and grandeur that must have surrounded this tomb in 221 BC.

Emperor Qin ascended the throne when he was only thirteen years old and his reign is widely interpreted as being one dominated by centralized rule and tyranny. The terracotta army face eastwards, a reflection of the Emperors fear of eastern invasion.

Although the Emperor did bring peace to the eastern states and unified China, he also ordered that all books be destroyed (except those concerning the Qin Dynasty) and implemented high taxes to fund the Great Wall. Modern historians have revised the opinion of the Emperor as a philistine and dictator. They argue that the wealth of treasures found in his tomb and the artistic value of the warriors themselves are examples of high culture and artistic talent.

Whatever the historical opinion, there is no disputing that this was once an incredible and impressive Tomb. Archaeologists believe that the tomb was originally decorated with gold, silver and pearl .

The artists who deigned and constructed the mausoleum were buried alive with the Emperor and thereby forced to literally take their secrets to the grave. According to the Emperors official biography, "The Emperor Qin Shi Huang was buried at the foot of Mount Li. The Emperor started to build his mausoleum as soon as he came to the throne.

When he unified the whole country, the Emperor Qin Shi Huang conscripted more than seven hundred thousand convicts to help build his mausoleum... and install crossbows, which were automatically discharged to prevent tomb plunderers."

Openning hours: 08:30-17:30
Admission Tickets：RMB 26
Tel：029-83914465

Banpo Village

The Banpo Village is six kilometers east of Xian. This excavated site of a village dates back to 4500 BC and was discovered in 1953. The village during this period was called Yangshao and 45 houses, 6 pottery kilns, 200 storage pits, 250 adults tombs and childrens burial jars, 10,000 tools and utensils were unearthed.

The distinct culture of these villagers was known as Yangshao culture. The most interesting aspect of this is that Yangshao culture was very artificial. There are more female tombs and graves here than male, and the womens graves contain more objects and valuables than their male counterparts do.

Today, the site itself is pretty flat and uninspiring. It takes a lot of imagination to picture how this place used to be and the Disney-style "Yangshao Village" which has been reconstructed at the site makes this area less appealing.

Opening hours: 08:30-18:00
Admission Tickets: RMB 15Tel：029-83512794

Huaqing Hot Springs

Huaqing Hot Spring (huaqing chi) is situated 30 kilometers east of Xian at the foot of the Lishan Hills. The Springs were a popular retreat with Emperors more than 2500 years ago, many of whom enjoyed bathing in the perfectly clear mineral water.

Today this is a favorite site for Chinese tourists. In fact, there is not a great deal to actually see here, but the history behind the area is very vivid and colorful!

Legend has it that the pools were fully established here in the Qing dynasty. The most romantic story that accompanies the history of the springs is that of the Chinese equivalent of Romeo and Juliet; the story of the Emperor Xuan Zong and his concubine Yang Guifei. Yang was a poor girl who the Emperor took a fancy to and promoted to the position of "lady".

Legend has it that he was so enamored by her beauty that it distracted him from his daily work. The Empire was being threatened and the courtiers threatened to kill the concubine, blaming her for the Emperors mismanagement of his nation.

Desperate and madly in love, Yang hung herself to save the country and her lovers name. The springs were renamed the Huaqing or "The Fair" springs, in honor of Yang Guifeis beauty.

There are numerous classical style buildings at the site and many frescoes decorate the walls here. It is usually very busy, as the story of Yang Guefei is very popular with the Chinese. Today, visitors can bathe in the 43 degree C water.

There is a "Hot Springs Bathhouse" which is rather like a private bathroom in a five star hotel. More atmospheric and cheaper too is the communal bathhouse.

Opening hours: 08:30-19:00
Admission Tickets: RMB 40
Tel：029-83814562

Terra – cotta Warriors and Horses Museum

Arguably one of Chinas most famous and popular tourist sites, the Terracotta warriors (bingmayong) are among the top archaeological excavations of the 20th Century. The warriors have made Xian the big tourist destination that it is today and the wealth in this city owes much to their discovery.

This incredible collection of 6,000 men and their horses was actually discovered completely by accident by a group of peasants in 1974 who were digging a well! In a bizarre twist, the man who supposedly discovered them now sits in a hall at the site signing postcards of the stone army.

The warriors are over 2000 years old and were originally constructed to protect the tomb of the Emperor Qin Shi Huang. The Warriors are now housed in a huge airplane hangar and despite their fame and the throngs of tourists visiting the site, they are still incredibly impressive. These life size warriors stand on guard as if preparing for battle. Historians believe that these magnificent men were originally painted.

The paint has now worn and the original bronze age weapons (including swords, arrows and lances) that many of the soldiers carried only a few years ago, are now locked up away from public eyes. Although there are 6000 of the statues remaining, there were actually many more when the tomb was first built.

It is the scale of this collection that is perhaps the most impressive aspect of the site. The Emperor must have been an incredibly influential and impressive man to deserve this great protection even when he was dead! The faces of the warriors are said to be modeled on the artists who sculpted them and on the actual Imperial guards at the time.

Further discoveries were made in 1976 when another 1000 warriors and various other sculptures were dug up. Archaeologists also believe that there is possibly a larger and more impressive army still buried beneath the Emperors tomb.

Opening Hours: 08:30-17:30
Admission Tickets: RMB 90
Tel：029-83911961

Xi'an Guide-Brief Introduction

The city of Xian (population 6 million) was the first Chinese city to open up its doors to the Ancient world, not in 1980 under the "Open Door" policy but in fact during the Tang dynasty when Xian blossomed as the first stop on the Silk Road.

Over a period of more than 2000 years, Xian was the capital for eleven dynasties. Along with Rome and Constantinople, this city was a world leader in culture and trade and played a vital role in bridging the gap between east and west.

Many of the sites to visit are outside Xian and the surrounding countryside offers a treasure trove of historical and religious relics. The most famous site is the Terracotta Army, built to protect the Emperor Qin Shi Huang, whose Mausoleum lies close the warriors. Both these sights are to the east of Xian.

There are other less famous but equally fascinating places worth visiting too. The Famen Temple claims to house the Buddhas fingers and still draws crowds of practicing monks (and tourists) to marvel at the fingers and the Tang dynasty treasures which are kept here. The countryside around Xian is also attractive and there are numerous mountains, including Mount Huashan which are a great break from the city.

Aside from being a major tourist destination and historical city, today Xian is an important industrial and manufacturing center. Despite the incredible history that Xian carries, it is a modern and prosperous area. The nightlife here is pretty up to date and Xians University is considered to be one of the best in China.

As a result, the city has a large student population who contribute to the cultural life of the city, making Xian one of the most pleasant cities in China and an ideal place to break the journey between Beijing and Shanghai.

Ancient Capital of China

Xian is one of the oldest cities in the world with a vivid and rich history and culture. It is not only the birthplace of the Chinese Nation, but also the birthplace of human civilization in Asia and the cultural center of prehistoric civilization. As such, Xian has a wealth of historical sites and relics to visit and see and is a great place to introduce yourself to Chinese history.

It all began (as the story goes) over one million years ago in a little village called Yangshao, which is now held to be one of the first matrifocal societies in the world. In the Bronze age, the Zhou dynasty made their capital near what is now Xian and the area really came to fame under the Emperor Qin Shi Huang when the empire was united with its capital at Xianyang (about 60 km west of Xian). The magnificent Terracotta Army were built during this period to protect the Emperors tomb from eastern invaders.

The Han dynasty also based themselves here from 206-220 AD and made Xian not only three times bigger than Rome, but an important trade center as the start of the famous Silk Road. In terms of historical and religious relics, the most important age was under the Tang dynasty.

Tang dynasty treasures are visible today in many of the museums including the great Lintong Museum . The citys role as a breeding ground for revolutionary thought continued into the twentieth century when Chang Kaisheks own troops arrested him here in 1936. Archaeologists believe that there are many more exciting discoveries still to be made in this area which will continue to bring fame and funding to this ancient city.

Climate in Xian

Xian is situated in the center of the Guanzhong Plains, surrounded by Mountains in the south and the Wei River in the north. Xian is also a city blessed with a pleasant climate most of the year round and its possible to pleasurably visit this city at almost any time of the year.

The coldest month here is January, with an average temperature of O degrees C although Xian has only a minimal snow level.

The hottest and most unpleasant month is July, with an average temperature of 26 degrees C. The summers here can also be very dry so make sure you have plenty of drinking water with you when you go sightseeing!! The average temperature for the year is 13 degrees C.

Month Average High Average Low Average High Average Low Rain
(F) (F) (C) (C) (in) (mm)
Jan 40 23 5 -5 0.2 8
Feb 46 28 8 -2 0.4 13
Mar 58 37 14 3 1.0 28
Apr 70 48 21 9 1.7 48
May 79 54 26 12 2.3 63
June 89 66 32 17 2.1 53
July 91 71 33 21 3.6 92.5
Aug 88 67 31 21 3.2 82.5
Sep 77 60 25 15 4 102.5
Oct 66 49 20 9 2.2 57.5
Nov 54 36 12 3 1.0 27.5
Dec 42 26 6 -3 0.2 7.5

Transportation in Xian

Located in the very center of China and long a prime destination connecting the east and west, Xian is today one of the best connected cities in China in terms of travel. There are numerous national and international flights in and out of the city airport and the rail and bus services operating in the city are also good.

By plane:
The city airport, Xiguan is approximately 40 km northwest of Xian. Northwest Airways, China United Airways and Dragon Air all operate out of the airport. There are daily flights to and from Xian to Beijing, Guangzhou, Chengdu, Guilin and Qingdao. There are a few flights a week to Lhasa and flights are now running to Hong Kong, Macau and Japan.

China Northwest Airways run a minibus service between the airport and their Xian booking center downtown on Laudong Lu. The bus runs every 50 minutes and costs RMB20. A taxi to the airport will cost approximately RMB150.

By train:
The train station in Xian is situated in the northeast of the town and is just outside the city walls. This is a major stop for trains heading either west or east and the line actually splits here. Some trains head north to Beijing and others east to Shanghai.

There are direct trains from Xian to Beijing (16 hours), Shanghai, Guangzhou (27 hours), Chengdu (17 hours), Hefei, Qingdao and Urumuqi. There is a foreigners ticket office on the second level of the train station which is open from 8.30 -11.30 and 2.30 -5.30. Make sure you bring your passport with you as you need this document to register. You can also buy hard seats at an office on Lianhua Lu and most of the major hotels will book train tickets for you, although they will charge for this service.

By bus:
The main long distance bus station is opposite the railway station in the northeast of the city. There are buses from here to Huashan Mountain (12 hours), Zhengzhou (12 hours) and Yinchuan (15 hours).

By Taxi
Taxis in Xian are plentiful and all metered. Its easy to hail. Fares vary depending on the size of the vehicle. Generally most taxis charge a base fee of RMB5 during the day and RMB6 from 10pm-6am, with RMB1.4 for each additional kilometer. However, cases are, most taxi drivers dont speak English. Before you set off from the hotel, ask the bellboy in the hotel to write down where youre going to both in English and Chinese.

By Bicycle
The best way to travel in Xian by yourself is to use the bicycle. There are bicycles for rent in most hotels in Xian, the rental averages RMB10-20 per day with RMB300 or passport as deposit.

Business and Industry Information

Xian is the largest commercial and trade-hub, as well as the largest material distribution center in theMid-Western Region of northern China. As shown in a report in 1998, there are more than 100,000 commercial service networks, 435 consumption markets, and 485 various types of wholesale markets, and nearly 1,000 wholesale agencies.

Through fifty years development, Xian has already set up sordidindustry basement in certain areas. Aviation, aerospace, electronics, machinery, communications, instruments and meters, and electric power are typical industry in Xian. In some of these areas, the industries in Xian has not only reached the top level in China, but also has equaled to the world advance level.

Location: located at 33 north and 107 east, in the southern part of GuanZhong Plain in Shaanxi province with Qinling Mountains to the north and the Weihe River to the south

Neighboring Areas: Shanxi, Henan, Hubei, Sichuan, and Gansu Provinces; Ningxia Hui and Inner Mongolia Autonomous Regions

Physical Features: with an elevation of 500 metres, the Weihe Plain extends between Baoji in the west and Tongguan in the east and borders the Qinling Mountains in the south and the Huangtu Plateau in the north. Lying in the warm zone, the plain has a temperate climate with four distinct seasons. Chequered with the Weihe, Jinghe, Luohe, and Bahe rivers as well as the Jinghui, Weihui and Luohui canals, the fertile land on the plain has easy access to irrigation facilities and an abundant yield of farm produce. Xian lies in the centre to the south of this plain, a favourable geographical location surrounded by water and hills

Nationalities: Han, Hui

Population: 6.62 million
Urban Population: 3.73 million
Area: 16,808 sq km

Average Temperature: 13.3C annually
Rainfall: 604.2mm annually

Mountains: Mt. Huashan, Mt. Taibaishan, Mt. Lishan

Rivers: Hui River, Wei River, Feng River, Jing River

Brief of Yunnan China

Yunnan is situated on a plateau in southwest China formed with the rising of the Himalayas from the ancient sea. In the northwest it borders on the eastern section of the Himalayas, thus it seems to be the last step to Tibet, the "roof of the world". "Yunnan" in Chinese means "south of the clouds". Various colors and shapes of the clouds over this plateau give Yunnan its full name "South of the Colorful Clouds". These beautiful rosy clouds always appear in the south, which is thought to be an auspicious sign. Yunnan people, therefore, are proud of living on this blessed land.
Yunnan is called "Yun" or "Dian" for short, located at latitude between 21°8'32" and 29°15' 8'' N and longitude between 97°31'39'' and 106°11'47''E. It is a vast land with towering mountains and plentiful rivers as well as abundant natural resources. The land area is 394,000 square km, the eighth largest province in China. The province has a total population of 41 million people, with 16 prefectures, autonomous prefectures and cities within its jurisdiction. Yunnan borders on Guizhou Province and Guangxi Zhang Ethnic Minority Autonomous Region to the east, Chongqing and Sichuan to the north and Tibet Autonomous Region to the northwest. To its west is Myanmar and to its south are Laos and Vietnam. The boundary line of China stretches 4,060 kms in Yunnan. About 94 per cent of the province is mountainous area. In short, Yunnan is a mountainous frontier province with many ethnic groups.
As the extension of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, Yunnan has an interesting geological structure. The Himalayan orogenic movement pushed up the "Roof of the World" from the ocean floor, forming several north-south mountain ranges and deep valleys. The Yunling, Nushan and Gaoligong mountains are narrow and precipitous. The Yangtze, Lancang and Nujiang rivers flow through the province. Between the Lancang and Jinsha Rivers (Yangtse River), is the source of the Yuanjiang River. The rivers roar and peaks tower over the valleys. The world-famous Nujiang Valley is found here. The valley extends from northwest to southeast like a fan, which cuts the Yunnan topography into two sections: the eastern section is the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau with an average elevation of 2,000 meters and many small lakes; the western section is filled with mountains, rivers and valleys. From peaks to river valleys is usually a sheer drop, which creates a rugged terrain. The important water systems in southeast Asia are concentrated here, including the Jinsha, Nanpan, Lancang (Mekong), Nujiang (Salween), Yuanjiang (Honghe), Dulong (Irrawaddy) rivers. All of them are important passages between China and southeast and south Asia.
At the same latitude on the earth, there are the vast expanse of the scorching Sahara Desert, the tropical Hawaiian Islands and the Indian Plain. The complex geographical conditions give Yunnan a very varied climate. The province descends like a ladder from north to south, a distance of about 900 km as the crow flies. The highest point in the north is the Kagebo Peak in Deqin County on the Deqin Plateau, which is about 6,740 meters high; and the lowest is in the HongheRiver Valley in Hekou County, with an elevation of 76.4 meters. The terrain descends six meters every kilometer towards the south. The temperature difference between eight latitude degrees is the same as that from southern Hainan Island to northeastern Changchun in China. Therefore, we find not only glaciers and snow-capped mountains with alpine vegetation at the lowest latitude, but also sub-tropical basins, blazing hot valleys and lush tropical vegetation at the highest.
It is hard to believe that ascending one kilometer vertically means a climatic change by travelling 1,400 to 2,500 kilometers from the south to the north of China. While the mountain peaks are always covered with ice and snow; half way up you will enjoy pleasant weather; and at the bottom of the valley the weather is very hot. On one mountain,you can enjoy natural scenery and colorful folk customs from alpine to tropical zones.
People like to call Yunnan the province of "perpetual spring". If you do not come to Yunnan yourself, however, you will never know what we mean by "four seasons on one mountain and a changing climate within a small area". Because of its abundant natural resources, Yunnan enjoys the reputation of the "kingdom of flora and fauna", "kingdom of nonferrous metals", "kingdom of medicinal herbs", "natural garden", "hometown of perfumes" and is a popular area for tourism. Since remote antiquity, Yunnan has been inhabited. About 500 million years ago, duing the Cambrian Period, the earth experienced a big explosion, leaving some traces in the Maotian Mountain in Chengjiang County, central Yunnan. The ancient animal fossils found in Chengjiang were first announced to the public in 1984 by a paleontologist. This was one of the most amazing scientific discoveries in paleontology in the 20th century. They are dated as being between the Australian "animal fossils" and Canadian "animal fossils". It has been designated as one of the "three wonders of early evolution on earth" and has been put on the World Cultural Heritage List.
Yunnan is like a book, with its famous ancient cities of historic and cultural significance as different chapters, in which thousands of years of vicissitudes

Pretty in salmon

While an unusual choice, there are literally thousands of vacations you can plan that revolve around fish: Head to Japan to brave a puffer fish roll, vacation in Oregon and Washington States to see Pacific salmon run, journey to Scandinavia for a pungent bite of pickled herring or strap on a tank in Australia and visit the deep blue. A lesser known destination for fish aficionados is in northwest China. The Hezhe people from Heilongjiang province have long depended on fish for their survival, and not just for food, but also for their clothing. For centuries this minority group has donned fish skins, except in the winter when they kept cozy in deer fur. There are 4,200 Hezhe people left today. This Hezhe community is made up of a tiny collection of solid one-story buildings and a few mud houses with thatched roofs. Only four of the women still know how to make the traditional fish skin clothes. You Wenfeng, 55, has made 15 sets of traditional Hezhe fish skin clothing in her life, mainly for museums in Japan and China. The two sets of children¡¯s clothing and one pair of adult shoes she made recently for Canadian museums were beautifully stitched by hand, with the natural markings of the fish placed perfectly. Twice You mentions that she is the best tailor in her village. "In the old days," says You, "our clothes lasted 10 years, but our shoes only two. As for the smell, it goes away in a month." The material is surprisingly soft and strong.
You's grandmother taught her how to manipulate fish skin into clothing when she was 21, after a Chinese museum asked for some specimens. Today she is teaching her daughter-in-law this craft. The best skins are from live salmon caught in late September in nets in the Heilongjiang River which meets the Songhua and Wusuli Rivers near Hezhe village. You uses fish that weigh 4-7 kilograms each, the larger the better though. After her family helps her skin and scale the fish, they carefully scrape the insides clean with a knife and dry them flat in straight lines. Drying takes at least a day in the sun. To soften them, they cover the fish skins in corn flour and then roll and mash them in a wooden, jaw-like instrument called a "mu he" in Putonghua and a "ge ji kou" in the Hezhe language. They also make the skin flexible by rubbing the pieces together by hand. Then comes the cutting. You does not use a pattern or glue, but puts the pieces together from memory and sews them by hand with cotton thread.
It took You 20 days to make each set of children's clothing from the skin of the soft underbelly of the fish. The clothing she makes for museums have no chemicals and the color will darken with age. You and her friend demonstrate the local fishing industry in dance form for visiting tourists. For more local flavor, the village offers a museum and store with fish bone sculptures and modern fish skin shoes and purses, made in south China from Heilongjiang fish skins. Another and larger museum about the Hezhe people is just outside the nearby city of Jiamusi. Exhibited there are fishing implements, old costumes and historical paintings and photos. To live off of the land is one thing, but to live off of the fish is something all those interested in our finned friends should see. Travel TipsGetting there: Fly directly to Jiamusi, near Hezhe, and then hire a driver to arrive at the village. To arrange a trip through an English speaker, contact Lu Yong at the Heilongjiang China International Travel Service, call 0451-5366 1178, e-mail: luyong@mail.hrb.hl.cninfo.net or check www.hljcits.com.
Where to stay: The Heilongjiang China International Travel Service can help arrange a stay in the village with one of the Hezhe families or at a nearby hotel.
What to eat: The salmon not only looks good on, but is delicious and fresh to eat.
Where to play: The museums give a decent overview of the Hezhe people, but hanging out with the villagers in their homes was just as educational and more fun.

Beach holiday in Sanya

In this season, it is the best time to go Hainan for an enjoyment. The beatutiful views and the good accomodation will make you fully refreshed.Hilton Sanya Resort and Spa Range: Five-star This hotel, positioned on Yalong Bay, Hainan's southernmost tip, overlooks a 750 meter stretch of powdery white sand.Its six restaurants and bars, all based on traditional Chinese elements, offer indoor dining in air-conditioned comfort and al fresco dining in the island's balmy breeze.Big Kitchen All-Day Dining is an all-day dining restaurant with a trendy open-kitchen setting as its main draw. Diners will find all kinds of world cuisines served here. After the Hilton Resort Breakfast, the restaurant turns into an open lunchtime kitchen serving noodles and pastas, sandwich boards, baked goods and sushi, sashimi and salads ?even barbecues, grills and stews. A whole new atmosphere wafts in at dusk for a fancy dinner tour of the world - Chinese, Japanese, Southeast Asian, Sri Lankan, Indian, Australian, Pacific Island, Middle Eastern, Continental European and American are mixed up for creative dishes. Address: Yalong Bay National Resort District, SanyaGet there: 40km from Phoenix Airport in Sanya and 230km from the Meilan Airport in Haikou, 25km to the railway station, and 20km from Sanya's dontown.Tel: +86-898-8858 8888

Sanya Romantic Seaview Hotel
Range: Three-star
This resort is, without a doubt, the top pick for young lovers and newlyweds. Situated on the picturesque beach Dadonghai, the Sanya Romantic Seaview Hotel is embraced by natural mountains and sprinkled with a pleasant mix of greenery that lends a glow to local flora. The bright, south-China sunshine makes every rare tropical bud even more gorgeous. The hotel offers an assortment of guest rooms for you to customize your visit: warm, romantic standard garden rooms, standard sea-view rooms, luxury suites and more. Every room is comfortable and has a gracious style and clear color.
Address: Dadonghai Travel District, Sanya 572000Get there: The picturesque beach Dadonghai, a 20-minute drive from the airport and 10-minute from the downtown.Tel: +86-898-8821 6888
Sanya Shengyi Seaview Hotel
The Sanya Shengyi Seaview Hotel is the perfect place to impress clients and partners before signing the next big contract. With its close location to the airport, the hotel is an ideal business trip destination, which offers accommodations, business service, food and drink and entertainment.
The hotel is equipped with a gracefully furnished sea view lobby bar. There are deluxe conference halls and huge auditoriums, all fully equipped for your presentations, as well as large parking lots, souvenir shops and a business center. After the meetings and negotiations are out of the way, leave your clients a lasting impression by inviting them out to enjoy the fantastic natural scenery.
Range: Three-star
Address: Binhai Road, Sanya 572000Get there: About 15-minutes from the Sanya Phoenix International Airport.Tel: +86-898-8889 8333 Sanya Eagle Backpackers Hostel
Range: No-star youth hostel
The hostel's founder is Jane. Her friends call her Coconut Jne, because she is always sweet and kind. As a certified tour guide, she runs the place and maintains a thoroughly good vibe, as well as clean and comfortable rooms. The triple can also be a dorm, so single travelers can still get a bed for a very cheap price.
Jane offers all sorts of tours from sightseeing trips she leads herself, to diving. She will organize any budget tour that interests you in Sanya to the best of her ability. The hostel opened fairly recently.
All the hostel employees speak fluent English. They are friendly and will help you with English translations and guidance. They try their best to make the hostel a cozy corner for backpackers. It's not a big hostel, and is very laid back.
Address: No 1206B Haitianhuiyuan Buiding, Yuya Road, Dadonghai, SanyaGet there: If you take the bus, you will find a stop in front of the Sanya Bus Station. Do not cross the road. Hop on the No 202 bus and get off at the 9th stop to enter the Kaiyue Sea View Hotel. The hostel is on the twelfth floor.Tel: +86-898-8821 1805

Dawdle among quiet canals

Yangzhou, famed for its beauty and namesake fried rice dish, has a long history and a strategic position that has attracted travelers for centuries.
The late English poet Philip Larkin wrote "The Importance of Elsewhere" whilst living and working across the Irish Sea in Belfast, Northern Ireland. The sentiment of the poem is one that many will associate with. It was with this in mind that I bought my train ticket for Yangzhou in neighboring Jiangsu Province.
"Ah, yes! Yangshuo," my friends nodded sagely, thinking I was meaning that well-known backpacker paradise near Guilin in Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region. "It's very beautiful."
Brows then knitted when I explained that I was actually going to Yangzhou, west of Nanjing, by train over the Spring Festival.
Worse still, I was going alone and my Mandarin, as they were aware, was some way short of fluent. Confusion followed by polite laughter and the conversations invariably ground to a halt, save for the odd: "Why?"
My criteria was simple: I wanted to stay in China; I didn't want to fly; nor did I want to spend days on a train.
I wanted a genuine, modern, urban Chinese experience away from the Western conveniences of Shanghai. I did, however, require a decent hotel room with a Western convenience.
In my native Scotland, Chinese people can be found in the most remote corners and often with powers of English that, if anything, are actually worse than my current powers of Mandarin. The Chinese in Scotland, as elsewhere, sprinkle a little bit of magic wherever they are to be found. I hoped to discover how a lone Scot would fair in upcountry China.
Yangzhou is an ancient city of more than four million denizens and situated where the mighty Yangtze River is crossed by the longest and oldest canal in the world, the aptly named Grand Canal.

The city is famed for a number of things but probably none more so than its namesake fried rice.
In Scotland, Chinese takeaways can be found almost everywhere and one dish they all serve is special fried rice (basically a beefed-up variety of the Yangzhou version). This is absolutely the most sustaining and often the tastiest food available for those on a budget transcending tight.
I attribute my having somehow survived those lean years to those particular cartons of magic. It was, therefore, with some reverie that I approached my first plate of the dish in the place from whence it originated.
Having traveled so far it seemed only polite to sample such a dish at one of the city's finer restaurants, View Mansion Cuisine. It was divine, nothing more, nothing less but it had been a long day which began with that culinary faux pas that begins with an M. Everywhere else was closed, honest.
The five-hour trip west from Shanghai takes in Suzhou, Wuxi, Changzhou, Nanjing and Zhenjiang and costs about 95 yuan (US$12.28) each way. Scenic it isn't, with power stations, construction projects and a patchwork of farming plots all interspersed with ponds and canals.
Copious quantities of garbage were evident everywhere. The train, however, was clean, comfortable and on time, way different from trains back in Scotland.
The taxi into town from the train station shouldn't cost more than 20 yuan. I stayed at the Hongqiao Hotel which is on the campus of the stately Yangzhou University and right next to a canal. The hotel was perfectly adequate, clean, well positioned and at 240 yuan per night, competitively priced.
The streets of Yangzhou were broad, quiet and sky, glorious sky, is visible through the many trees. Boisterous tweety birds outdo the noticeably reduced traffic, noise-wise, legions of rickshaw riders tout for business and perform death-defying maneuvers across junctions.
There are bridges galore over the many canals and the pace of life is turned right down. Horns are thankfully much less obvious than here in Shanghai and the reason why quickly becomes apparent. Signs everywhere indicate no horns, simple and clearly effective. Perhaps that approach might catch on. The city had a dignified decent feel to it, quite different from Shanghai.

The China beautiful bamboo mountains seas and shoots

Early spring is the time to taste fresh bamboo shoots in Anji, a town dominated by bamboo forests in western Zhejiang, and have a Chinese poetic tour through one of the country's biggest seas of bamboo.

A Tang dynasty (618-907) poem says, "You went to Yangzhou in a flowered March." For the thousand years since, Chinese people have used that quotation to refer to any earlspring travel. Here, "Yangzhou" refers to southeast ChinaSince ancient times, southeast China has been one of the best places to visit in spring. Light rainfall mixes with soft breezes and floral scents. It's also a convenient place to find a hotel, dine and travel. The locals are hardworking people, and operate many family hotels and restaurants. With its lakes, traditional Chinese architecture and the bamboo forest at Anji, western Zhejiang is a place you shouldn't miss. Zhejiang is the home of bamboo forests which are, in many people's eyes, better than Sichuan's. This is probably part of the reason that many films, includ Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon, were shot there.
Su Dongpo, a renowned Song dynasty (960-1279) poet, said, "We could eat without meat, but couldn't live away from bamboo." In fact, bamboo is the symbol of Chinese cule, referring to a pure spirit. Years ago, that poem led my classmates and I, all Chinese literature majors, to the Anji bamboo forest to experience a life far from noise, without computers and air-conditioners.
Today, I still remember those days in the bamboo forest and hope to return again one day.How to get there
Anji is 73 kilometers from Hangzhou. If you are departing from Beijing, there are seven trains to pick from. The Z9, which goes non-stop to Hangzhou, is the fastest. When you arrive, grab a bus to Hangzhou's northern bus station, which will take about half an hour. There, you can find many buses which depart from Hangzhou to Anji. Change uses at the station in Anji to visit the bamboo forest, about 40 minutes away.
Anji bamboo forest (Dazhuhai)
Anji was a small town built during the Eastern Han Dynasty (185) with a history spanning 1,800 years. The name of the town means "peace and luck.Before going there, we were worried about whether or not it could live up to the images we saw in Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon. As our bus reached the mountain, were were astonished by the scenery. Bamboo was everywhere!
The forest covers 60,000 hectares and has been designated as an ecological area. It produces 12 million commercial bamboo poles annually, ranking first in the nation.

We spent a whole day climbing the mountain and walking through the bamboo forest, the poles casting a shadow over us. The wind whispered through the bamboo. It was such a wonderful experience that every time I pull out my pictures, I'm instantly transported back to that moment in the thicket. I can even hear the whispering.Bamboo sprouts were plucked and cooked by the peasants all the way up the mountain. Usually, the bamboo was freshly picked and boiled in a soup. There were no set places that sold it - you could only find the soup by its fragrance, cooked by women with boilers out in the forest.If that's not enough, you can head to the foot of the mountain fo a bamboo banquet in a local restaurant. Nearly everything there was made from bamboo - from bamboo duck soup to dried bamboo shoots. The mountain also yields a lot of hickory nuts, which are difficult to find in other parts of China. Of the family hotels in Anji, I recommend Shunfeng Shanzhuang, owned by Gu Shiyi. His rooms with two beds cost 50 yuan per day, with a 24-hour supply of hot water. You can see bamboo trees as soon as you pull open the door. Call the hotel at 0572-511 2315 or 138-192-660-36.

Canglong waterfall
Our next stop was the Canglong waterfall (Canglongbaipu), which is famous for its hundreds of waterfalls, the largest of which is 60 meters.
The falls are located in Tianhuangping, a small town in southeast Anji. Buses head there from the Anji bus station every day. Many valleys and rivers can be found there, which has earned it the nickname of "Jiu Zhai Gou" in China.When we pulled up, it was still a little rainy. The hills were covered in thick clouds, but the waterfalls could still be seen from far away. Their voice was heard everywhere, and they were clearly visible from the resort on Xiaoliang Mountain.
The mountain is famous for a great battle that took place there between the Qing dynasty (1644-1912) court and the Heavenly Kingdom of Great Peace (Taiping Tianguo) (1853-1864). The Taiping, aimed at overthrowing the Qing, created a new law code with many rules similar to modern China's. At its height, it ocupied one-third of China and promoted equality of the sexes and abolished foot-binding. In Xiaoliang Mountain, we saw many cavities with iron barriers, which, according to local peasants, were the military factories of the Taiping. A small, stockaded village could be found in the mountain with about 300 peasants. According to the locals, the village was built over 200 years ago, and many of the people who lived there were children of Hong Xiuquan, the leader of the Taiping.
The Anji bamboo forest is a great place to relax, but the Canglong waterfall could test your strength. You need not only to climb the mountain to see the falls, but also to walk across some rocky bamboo bridges which hang over deep chasms. You can also take a bamboo raft down the rushing white water.
Suggestions:
There are two bamboo-related spots in Anji. Don't get them confused. One is th forest itself: its tickets are 20 yuan each. Another is a man-made bamboo museum (Zhuboyuan): its tickets are 75 yuan. The later contains a variety of manmade bamboo from all over China and Asia, and has been developed as research center. It is not as beautiful as the forest itself, but is still a choice if you want to see different the kinds of bamboos and learn their names.

China's mystery mountain

Nianbaoyuze, when translated from the Tibetan language,means the grand mountain of boulder. Located on the border of Qinghai and Sichuan provinces, it is composed of about 3,600 mountains and 360 lakes about 4,000 meters above sea level.
Though it is said Nianbaoyuze has 360 lakes, the local tourism bureau and local Tibetans said they are mainly 16 large lakes and about 300 smaller lakes dotting the mountains.However, because 360 is a lucky number in Buddhism, the Tibetans believe there are 3,600 peaks and 360 lakes in Nianbaoyuze.
Nianbaoyuze is said to be the birthplace of the local Tibetans on the Golok Grassland.
As the main peak on the southeastern section of Mountain Bayan Har, it is about three hours drive from the most beautiful county in Sichuan province, Aba, and 40 kilometers from the small Jiuzhi County.
Before the middle of last year,Nianbaoyuze was still largely unknown among most of the "outsiders"from Guoluo Grassland.However, its diversified landforms and various kinds of plants and wild animals have attracted not only adventurers but also numerous scientists and geologists.
By May 2006, Nianbaoyuze was appraised as a National Nature park,and is now being promoted by the local tourism bureau. Since then,the name "Nianbaoyuze" has been spread fast among tourists and backpackers.
Here you can find no lake more transparent or more clear. Being regarded as holy lakes, these waters are forbidden to be touched by people. Only two years ago, two monks from Aba County adventured to swim in t he lakes, yet later both were found dead in mysterious circumstances.It is said there is a god living in the lakes that protects the local Tibetans, and the local Tibetans said the monks' deaths were caused by t he punishment from this god.
Nianbaoyuze is also home for various plants and rarely seen wild animals. In t he sout heastern parts,there are virgin forests of pines and firs. The ravines are home to elusive snow leopards, brown bears and lynxes.
Climbing on the main peak of Mountain Nianbaoyuze is one of the dreams for many mountaineers. The mountain is covered by a gigantic glacier, and the main peak is 5,369 meters above sea level. The mountain is at a longitude of 101 degrees east and a latitude of 33.35 degrees north. Last year, Nianbaoyuze was named as one of the top 10 mountains "with great difficulties for climbing" in China.
Summer, with hundreds of flowers blooming and the slight changes in weather, is considered to be the best season to enjoy the beauty of Nianbaoyuze. And summer is also a good time to experience the holy rituals by the local monks.
Monks from Sege'er Temple in Aba County come here ever y July to hold rituals for those who have finished t he three-year ascetic practices, according to the doctrines of Buddhism. The monks will throw green branches wrapped with silk into the lake,which they believe shows respect to the Natural God.
So far, there is still no road in t his area, and a single trip to travel across this place will take at least seven days. But a local guide is a must to avoid getting lost in this vast land, and plenty of food and camping equipment is also essential.
For common visitors, the Fairy Lake and Siren lakes are most approachable. However, even to walk across the two lakes takes at least one day.
Covering an area of more than 10 square kilometers, the Fairy Lake is a freshwater lake teeming with non-squama fish (fish without scales). People cannot even touch t he swimming fish in the clean water, because the fish in the lake are also considered holy just like the lake itself. Therefore, Tibetans are forbidden from eating the fish.

The Wall, unplugged

Considering that it was constructed for the purpose of keeping foreigners out of China, it's ironic that the Great Wall has become China's number one attraction for visitors from abroad. If you've only done the chairlift at Badaling, however, you can hardly count yourself as a Wall veteran. Indeed, speak to any tourist visiting Beijing, and you may well get the impression that there are only three parts of the Great Wall to be seen in the country. Backpackers are especially quick to make fun of the Badaling and Mutianyu crowd, and speak in hushed tones of the "real" wall at Simatai.
Let's be honest - all three of these sections are intensely marketed to tourists of varying persuasions - and while all of them are fine parts of the Wall to see, on a monument with sections scattered across the country there is certainly a lot more ground to be covered.
We may no longer be able to follow in the steps of William Lindesay - the Briton who journeyed the entire length of the Wall on foot in 1987 - but there are still numerous locations within reach of Beijing where visitors can enjoy features and designs unique to each particular section. If you want to be able to stay a step ahead of those backpackers who assume they've seen more of China than you have just because they've climbed some stairs at Simatai, take a day off to see some of the less-travelled Wall and give yourself something really worth boasting about.
Don't forget that much of the Great Wall in this part of the country climbs near-vertical mountain faces, so if the only exercise you've been doing is thumbing through boxes of DVDs, gird yourself to expend some effort. The Wall sections in most of these locales are rough staircases up mountainsides. The climb, however, is more than worth the effort.
If you're making a weekend of it, you'll usually be able to find a local farmer with a room to rent - they're used to tourists coming knocking. In Xifengkou, however, you'll need to go back to Qianxi to find a hotel, and in Jiumenkou and Laolongtou, head for the walled city of Shanhaiguan to spend the night.
The Great Wall at JiankouJiankou is hiking Wall, where you'll be clambering over fallen brick and inching your way up steep un-railed mountain faces - take care. The white cliff rock used in its construction makes Jiankou stand out strikingly against the heavily forested hillsides, making it one of the most photogenic Wall sections. You can camp out for the night in one of the towers -but don't forget to take sufficient drinking water with you.
The Great Wall at HuanghuachengOvergrown with sweet yellow flowers in the summer and stretching high above a natural spring lake and crescent-shaped water reservoir, this is a beautifully preserved section of the Wall favored by nature lovers all year round. That being said, the paths are far from pristine - this is 420-year-old masonry - but the climb isn't steep until you get higher up, and in some parts the walk is very pleasant.
The Great Wall at HuangyaguanThe Huangyaguan Wall in Tianjin features some unusual architecture and unique watchtower design, the result of strategic imperatives. This was an important pass that required superb defence facilities, and the small city built below (now refitted to accommodate tourists) was fixed with traps and wrong-turns to confuse any invaders who made it through. It's a tough section of the Wall, noted for its peculiarly austere beauty and mathematically precise nature.
The Great Wall at XifengkouCharacterized by almost obliterated Wall stretches that lie between curiously well-preserved watchtowers, Xifengkou is most famous for a submerged section - depending on reservoir levels, the underwater Wall can be seen as a ghostly silhouette of ancient glories. The Nationalists found this pass as strategically valuable as ever when staging successful resistance attacks here against the Japanese in 1933 - if you look carefully, you can still find bullet holes in the Wall.
The Great Wall at JiumenkouThe Jiumenkou Wall near Liaoning's Huludao is known for its 100m span across the Jiujiang river - the only part of the Great Wall that resembles, and functions as, a bridge - with nine sluice gates making up the pass across the river. There are two kilometers of easy going and fully restored Wall here to explore, making for a nice afternoon¡¯s climb. This is an easy part of the Wall to conquer.
The Great Wall at LaolongtouThe Great Wall finally meets the sea at Laolongtou - the head of the Wall. This is a level and fully reconstructed section that extends from the beach all the way back to the walled city of Shanhaiguan and straight up the steep slopes of Jiaoshan mountain.

Liugong-a historical tiny isle

The ferry departs the picturesque city of Weihai and speeds eastwards towards Liugong Island, only 4 kilometers away.
From a distance, Liugong Island looks like a huge whale breaching the waters. Some naval vessels loom along the coast as it gets closer.
Liugong Island, off the Shandong Peninsula, is probably one of the tiniest isles along China's long coastline, yet it weighs heavily in the nation's psychology.
The 3.15-square-kilometer island was the birthplace of China's navy, the Northern Fleet, in 1888. Yet, only six year later, the fleet was defeated by the Japanese navy during the First Sino-Japanese War (1894-95).
Today, the bitter outcome of that war still lingers in the minds of many Chinese.
In April 1895, the Qing Imperial Government of China was forced to sign the Treaty of Shimonoseki, ceding Taiwan and other neighboring isles to Japan, opening treaty ports and paying war indemnity of 200 million taels.
The war compensation, equivalent to some seven years of Japan's revenue income at the time, was used mostly to develop the island nation's military industry.
It is sunny on the day of my visit. Hundreds of college students in navy camouflage are receiving military drills in an open space in front of old army houses just 200 meters from the ferry dock. For its historical significance, Liugong Island is listed as a patriotic education base.
The Sino-Japanese War Museum is the main spot where one can understand this unique island.
Occupying an area of 100,000 square meters, or the size of 14 soccer fields, the museum holds dozens of important historical sites from the war, such as the Northern Fleet Commanding Office, Longwang Temple, Commander Ding Ruchang's Residence, Memorial Hall of Northern Fleet Martyrs, Naval Academy, and three batteries.
Visitors enter the museum through the door of the Northern Fleet Commanding Office. Four golden Chinese characters "haijun gongsuo", meaning navy head office, glitter in the sunshine over the Qing-style gate.
It was written by Li Hongzhang, chief minister of the Qing government who founded the Chinese Northern Fleet. Li was a controversial figure. He was also the one who represented the Qing government when signing the humiliating treaty with Japan.
But Li was also the one who led China's Self-strengthening Movement between the 1870s and 1890s, in a bid to learn from the Western powers by building modern industries and reforming institutions.
Unlike Japan's Meiji Restoration in the late 1860s, which successfully reformed Japan and modernized the island nation, the Self-strengthening Movement was a failure. Otherwise, Chinese history over the last 120 years could well have followed a totally different path.
Inside the head office compound are a number of brick and wood houses of Manchu-style. German Krupp cannons salvaged from the sunken warships are also on display outside these houses.
Relics, wax figures, pictures, models and video programs have all combined to bring visitors back into the heart of that bloody battle.
The names and ranks of some 600 Northern Fleet army were carved on the wall in the memorial hall. Northwest of the head office is Commander Ding Ruchang's residence. Ding, head of the Northern Fleet, committed suicide after seeing his fleet crushed by the Japanese. He was later scapegoated by the corrupt Qing government for the debacle.
East of the residence is the site for the naval academy, which was burned down during the war. Xiyuan Men, a gate to the academy, still stands there as a reminder of the academy, with teachers from Germany and other Western powers.
Ruins of the Iron Dock along the coast is also an impressive site. In the heyday of the Northern Fleet, 50 naval ships anchored here.
After spending hours refreshing a history class in the compound, I jump on a circle-the-island tour bus. In truth, it just goes around half of the island.
On this ride, you can see many old houses built by the British, which leased the island from the weak Qing government for 42 years from 1898 to 1940.
The Liugong Island tour is truly educational. It is a bitter history lesson, telling visitors to do their best for world peace. There should be no more wars.

Great dining enjoyments in Qingdao

Qingdao, a coastal city on the Yellow Sea on East China's Shandong Peninsula, is famous worldwide for its famed Tsingtao Beer, but another constant delight of locals and a beautiful memory for tourists is the city's excellent seafood cuisine.
Seafood choices abound in Qingdao, and its residents' cooking skills have been highly regarded for centuries. Trepang, abalone, sea snails, clams, oysters, squid, shrimp and crab dishes are common choices whether at a seaside snack bar, in one of the city's many excellent "ordinary" restaurants or fine dining at a luxury hotel. Clams are a local favourite, and many people like to cook at home. Clams can accompany cold dishes, be served in a hot soup, or prepared as spicy fried dishes. Delicious and nutritious soups are also highly recommended.
Because of Qingdao's rich seafood resources and its culinary legacy, there are special seafood fish dishes for each time of the day. Trepang is considered indispensable for local fine dining.
Some of the best places to sample the freshest seafood are found in fishing villages in the city's mountainous Laoshan District. The seafood there is often fresh-caught, good to eat and relatively inexpensive. Summer and autumn are the best seasons to visit Laoshan. Its scenery, temples and seaside amusements make this a place for unforgettable sightseeing and dining experiences.
Another delightful place well-worth visiting is the Yunxiao Lu Food Street. Seafood there is reasonably priced and comes in a wide variety. Dumplings (jiaozi) with tasty seafood fillings are quite popular.
Newcomers to the area and its cuisine, however, should take special care of their stomachs. Often, an appetite is easily satisfied, but such pleasures can come at a price; the stomach sometimes suffers. Since vinegar can help protect the stomach and make the seafood more delicious, remember not eat too much at once, and ask for some vinegar and vegetables with your meals. Try especially pucai, a vegetable grown in ponds. Pucai is crisp and nutritious, and it is treasured by local residents.
But, since Qingdao is an exceptionally diverse city, because of its unique history and culinary history, if you get bored with seafood, there are many other treats available. On May 1¨C7 each year snacks from home and abroad are featured for tasting on Qingdao's Huiquan Square; the 2007 instalment will be part of the Eighth China Food Festival. Chefs from more than 20 countries will show off their best dishes, and lectures on healthy dining will be given by experts.
Beer lovers look forward to August in this famed beer-producing city, because this is the time for the Qingdao International Beer Festival. Beer is a big part of life in Qingdao, and if you visit at other time of the year, the newly opened "Dengzhou Lu Beer Street" is ready to welcome you. The street is home to the original Tsingtao Beer Factory, established about a century ago by German residents in Qingdao. There are now about 40 beer bars and restaurants lining the nearly 1,000-metre-long street. Of special note, all the buildings on the street are in the late 19th century¨Cearly 20th century European-style. Fresh beer produced in the factory is available daily in the area's bars, the freshest in the city. At the Tsingtao factory, the Tsingtao Beer Museum contains a detailed history of Tsingtao Beer and its production processes. Here you can sample the best in beer with others from around the world.
To prepare for your Qingdao adventure or if you are planning to visit Qingdao for the 29th Olympic Sailing Regatta in 2008, see: www.qingdaocate.com and www.meishi007.com, which contain useful information that will enhance your stay.

36 hours in Hong Kong

Hong Kong's newest tourist attraction, a 25-minute cable-car ride over the rugged green hills of Lantau Island, says a lot about this former British colony. Ngong Ping 360 (www.np360.com.hk) demonstrates Hong Kong's fascination with travel and technology; the skyrail's hilltop terminus, an ersatz Chinese village, plays to local passions for eating, shopping and taking pictures. From there, it is a short walk to the Po Lin monastery's 112-foot-tall bronze statue of Buddha seated on a lotus throne, an expression of Hong Kong's fundamental Chineseness. This crazy mix of commerce and culture ¡ª plus sublime modern architecture, great food, nonstop nightlife and amazing views ¡ª makes Hong Kong,one of the world's biggest tourist draws.
Friday
3 p.m.1) FERRY THROUGH HISTORY
Make your way down the swaying gangplank and board a Star Ferry, the humble vessel that has been plying Victoria Harbor for more than a century. The upper deck (2.20 Hong Kong dollars, or about 29 cents at 7.97 Hong Kong dollars to the U.S. dollar) has great views of Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula, while the lower deck (1.70 Hong Kong dollars) provides an additional glimpse of the boiler room. From the Tsim Sha Tsui terminal in Kowloon, walk past the ¡°copy watch¡± hawkers of fake Rolexes, to the Hong Kong Museum of History (100 Chatham Road South; 852-2724-9042; www.lcsd.gov.hk/ce/museum/history). The museum is a testament to Hong Kong's determination not just to survive (see the extraordinary film scenes of typhoons, the Japanese occupation and Red Guard campaigns), but also to prosper (behold a replica of an old street lined with a pawn shop, tea house, post office, bank, grocery store and Chinese pharmacy).
7 p.m.2) WASHROOMS WITH A VIEW
Felix, the Philippe Starck-designed aerie atop the Peninsula Hotel (Salisbury Road; 852-2315-3188; www.hongkong.peninsula.com), is justifiably popular with tourists, with its Starck-ly white d¨¦cor and washrooms with spectacular views (especially when facing the urinals). But a hipper local crowd drinks nearby at Aqua, a bar and restaurant complex high in an office building (1 Peking Road; 852-3427-2288; www.aqua.com.hk). Snag a comfy sofa and place your Aquatini (Ketel One vodka, lychee liqueur, Chambord and gold leaves, 108 Hong Kong dollars) on a glowing blue table.
8:30 p.m.3) CHINESE CHIC
With its striking lighting and floor-to-ceiling harbor views, the restaurant Hutong bears no resemblance to those old, smelly Beijing alleys of the same name (part of the Aqua restaurant group, on the 28th floor at 1 Peking Road, one flight below Aqua; 852-3428-8342). Try the crispy de-boned lamb rib (248 Hong Kong dollars) or the soft-shell crabs in a mound of Sichuan peppers (230 Hong Kong dollars), washed down, if you are splurging, with a bottle of Australia's famed Penfolds Grange shiraz (5,480 Hong Kong dollars).
10:30 p.m.4) TOWERS OF BEER
Though there are street signs pointing to Knutsford Terrace in Kowloon, this bar-filled promenade is still hard to find. But the street's bright little lounges and clubs are worth the effort, especially if you want to order a three-liter tower of Carlsberg (278 Hong Kong dollars) at Big Tree Pub (No. 4-5; 852-2721-1686), smoke a tobacco-filled bubble pipe (100 Hong Kong dollars) at Merhaba (No. 12; 852-2367-2263) or boogie to live cover-band music at the appropriately named All Night Long (No. 9; 852-2367-9487). (Hint: take the escalator or stairs from Kimberley Road.)
Saturday
10 a.m.5) DEPLOY YOUR CASH
Do what Hong-Kongers do: Shop. By sticking to the network of elevated walkways in the central business district, you can hit just about every luxury brand on the planet ¡ª Armani to Zegna ¡ª without letting your Jimmy Choos touch the street. But frankly, you can get this stuff elsewhere. More fun is to poke around Shanghai Tang (12 Pedder Street; 852-2525-7333; www.shanghaitang.com) for cool renditions of traditional Chinese clothing (sweaters and cheongsam dresses) or housewares (wine coasters and picture frames). Then look for bargains in mandarin-style jackets in ¡°the lanes,¡± the narrow passageways between Des Voeux Road and Queen's Road Central. Pop down into Sam Wo Handbags Company (basement of 41-47 Queen's Road Central; 852-2524-1807) for a huge selection of fashionable wallets and bags.
12:30 p.m.6) MY LITTLE DUMPLINGS
Plenty of restaurants serve dim sum for lunch, though rarely after 3 p.m. You can have non-greasy spring rolls with shredded chicken at the elegant Lei Garden restaurant (third floor, 1 IFC Mall; 852-2295-0238), or sample delicious vegetable dumplings at the authentically unpretentious Wang Fuh Dumpling (65 Wellington Street; 852-2121-8089). But for the best experience, take a number and wait in line at the immense City Hall Maxim's Palace (second floor, City Hall Low Block; 852-2521-1303; www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/CulturalService/CityHall/restaurants1.html), where the patrons are as loud as the red-and-gold d¨¦cor. Carts are stacked with baskets of har gow (shrimp and bamboo-shoot dumplings) and char siu bao (barbequed pork buns), or buckets of fresh tofu (dishes 25 to 50 Hong Kong dollars each). In between servings, you can admire the harbor view or look for a wedding party: City Hall has a popular marriage registry.
3 p.m.7) ART WALK
Take the Mid-Levels Escalator, a half-mile of moving stairways that connect the skyscrapers of Central with the apartment buildings midway up Victoria Peak. Get off at Hollywood Road, Hong Kong's antiques district. For cheap souvenirs, try the open-air vendors on Cat Street, just off Hollywood Road near the historic, incense-filled Man Mo Temple. For serious Chinese antiquities, visit Lam & Company (44 Hollywood Road; 852-2543-8877, www.lamantiquities.com) and Empyrean (70 Hollywood Road; 852-2559-7338; empyrean-antiques.com). For contemporary art, go to the galleries Shoeni (27 Hollywood Road; 852-2542-3143; www.schoeni.com.hk), Plum Blossoms (1 Hollywood Road; 852-2521-2189; www.plumblossoms.com) and Hanart TZ Gallery (second floor, 5 Queen's Road; 852-2526-9019; www.hanart.com).
7:30 p.m.8) VICTORIA PEAK
Since the 1880s, the Peak Tram (www.thepeak.com.hk) has carried wide-eyed passengers from Central to Victoria Peak, 1,300 feet high in the middle of Hong Kong Island. Board at the station behind St. John's Building (33 Garden Road), and watch the buildings go by at seemingly right angles during the steep ascent (33 Hong Kong dollars round trip).
8:30 p.m.9) COLONIAL CUISINE
Before the Peak Tram was built, the Peak Lookout site was a rest stop for men carrying rich Britons in sedan chairs from sweltering Central to their cooler Peak homes. It has since been turned into a colonial-style restaurant (121 Peak Road; 852-2849-1000; www.thepeaklookout.com.hk), known as much for its views as for its food. Book a table outdoors, with a view of the southern side of the island, and start with the giant combination platter: Thai spring roll, fried soft-shell crab, salmon on Indian nan bread, Mexican chicken quesadillas, for 318 Hong Kong dollars. That will give you an idea of this charming restaurant's international menu (there are hamburgers and sushi, too). Figure about 800 Hong Kong dollars for two, with a bottle of Australian chardonnay.
10:30 p.m.10) DO THE BARS EVER CLOSE?
Order a beer at any one of Lan Kwai Fong's dozens of lively bars. You will have lots of company in Central Hong Kong's best-known bar area, as tourists, expatriates and locals meet, talk and drink more beer (from 40 Hong Kong dollars and up). Since most of the establishments open onto the sidewalk (the streets are closed to most traffic), you can easily find music and a crowd to your liking.
Sunday
11 a.m.11) SHOPPING, PART 2
From Central, hop on a double-decker bus (No. 6, 6X or 66) to the former fishing village of Stanley (about 8 Hong Kong dollars one way). The ride will take you from the commercial district, over the hills (or through a tunnel), to the South Side, a residential area with splendid beaches, Riviera-style corniches and wide-open views of the South China Sea. At the end of the line, in Stanley Market, you'll find an easy-to-navigate warren of shops, many offering what appear to be the same pashmina scarves, silk ties and paintings of Hong Kong's harbor. But a closer look will reveal great shopping: the stores on Old Stanley Street for childrens' clothes, Tong's for table linens (55-57 Stanley Street; 852-2813-0337) and Sun & Moon for sportswear (18 A-B, Stanley Main Street; 852-2813-2723). Don't miss two of the nonshopping sights in Stanley: the Murray Building, a colonial treasure that was dismantled on the other side of the island and rebuilt here in 2000, and the Tin Hau temple, built in 1767 and dedicated to the deity who protects seafarers.